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The Scottish Terrier

Grooming

FIRST PART 

Use a tweezer knife

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A – Begin by epilating on the neck, just behind the ears.
B – Continue on the back, depilate down along the neck and over the shoulders to the elbow. Go down in gradation on the sides, and on the hindquarters.
C – Cut the tail into a carrot
D – Mow at the head 3mm.
E – Round around the foot
F – Trim, if necessary, the underside of the coat, and around the front legs
G – The hair on the neck and on the chest will be shaved at the head 3mm, against the hair, going down at an angle slightly on the shoulder, to the elbow.
H – The head will be shorn to 3mm, against the hair, eyebrows and beard trimmed with scissors
I – Ears will be cropped to 1mm

scottish terrier grooming
compagnon terrier ecossais scotthis terrier

NECESSARY MATERIAL

- a carding brush
– an iron comb
– a non-cutting depilatory knife
– a pair of straight scissors
– a pair of sculpting scissors
– a 3 & 1 mm head trimmer

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All grooming equipment can be purchased online at our store

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Basic information

scottish  must be DEWEARED and NEVER SHOWN (except certain parts of the body), a shorn hair is much more difficult to maintain, the hair becomes soft and curly, the color dulls.


There are two ways to depilate either with a depilatory knife which should never be sharp, or with the fingers: by holding the skin with one hand and with the other taking small tufts of hair between the thumb and the forefinger then pull, always in the direction of the hair. Epilation with the fingers requires more time and a certain habit but with this method the epilation is regular, no hole and the regrowth is better.

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You can wash the Scottish but always use a special rough coat shampoo. The black Scottish, as well as the brindle, having a slightly strong smell, it can be washed regularly. The "wheat" does not need to be shampooed often, because it has no smell, and its hair gets dirty much less because it is much harder.


To start, you have to brush and comb the dog thoroughly so that the coat is well disentangled.

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PARTS TO MOW

In order to facilitate the work to be done and to have reference marks, start with the parts to be mowed: the chest and the back. Use the 3mm head, it seems short but if you take a higher head, the hair being very dense and hard, it will not pass through the hair. These shorn parts, the dog will appear shorter, which is the desired effect in this breed.

THE CHEST: The chest must be shaved to 3mm, against the hair, starting at the joint of the leg going up on the neck and under the beard. For the shoulder, go down in the direction of the hair slightly on the neck at an angle on the shoulder, the demarcation will be taken up with hair removal and finished with scissors-sculptors.

THE BACK: Clip the back of the tail, and the underside of the tail and the buttocks, there too the demarcation will be taken up with hair removal and finished with scissors-sculptors.

DEPILATION

THE NECKLINE – THE BACK: Start waxing the neckline, then go down the back to the tail. Take back the depilation, and finish with scissors-sculptors, the demarcation between the shaved part of the shoulder and the depilated part of the neckline so that it disappears. The sides must be depilated in gradient so as never to leave a straight line of demarcation between the depilated hairs of the back and the skirt.

It is necessary to depilate the thighs, also by degrading, and by catching up, either by depilating or with scissors-sculptors, the shorn part of the back.

THE TAIL: The back of the tail has been shaved, the top will either be depilated or worked with scissors-sculptors, with the finishes with straight scissors. This must be cut into a carrot

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THE SCOTTISH CUP

THE LEGS: Use straight scissors to even out the circumference of the legs and feet so that they are round and neat.

THE SKIRT: It must be neat, even out if necessary.

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THE HEAD: The top of the skull will be shaved starting from the ears, against the hair, head 3mm, down to the eyebrows. Hair should not be left on the top of the skull which will be reworked with the hairs of the neck (with scissors-sculptors or depilation) in order to lengthen the skull.

The hair on the cheeks will be shorn up from the neck to the eyes. Do not dig too much under the eye, this part will have to be evened out with straight scissors and sculpting scissors.
The eyebrows must be long, they must be cut at an angle starting from the side of the eye going towards the nose.
The ears must be cropped at 1mm, down to the base at the back, a tuft of hair will be left on the inner side so that the ears appear close together.

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SOURCE ; Walescot-Kinloche breeding

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